Wednesday, January 1, 2014

High Gloss Conference Table with Painted Inlay Part 1

 This is the step by step process for a high gloss conference table I did a few years back. As a cost saving measure we did a painted black inlay. This saved the client a lot of money because the table was easier to build. With black you really can't tell the difference from an actual black inlay.


Here is the table before finish. It has already been sanded to 220 grit and inspected with a light to assure there are no surface defects. The first thing I am going to do is layout where my inlay is going to go. My inlay is supposed to be 1/4" so I will apply some 1/4" crepe masking tape on the solid wood. The solid wood was made 1/4" over size to accommodate the inlay line. 






This tape is applied without burnishing to avoid splintering the grain when it is removed.
 I am just using it as a guide line for masking after the table is sealed.



The solid wood will be stained so I mask off the solid and seal the veneer center
with a 2K urethane isolante or barrier coat as this table will be grain filled with a polyester sealer.
This isolante coat will allow me to burnish my masking tape so
 I don't get bleed through with the black.
The barrier coat I am using is Ilva TF25



Picture 1: I mask off the center of the table Picture 2: Spray a water based dye stain on the solid and then Picture 3: Sealed with the same isolante product. I will continue the process with the next post.
Part 2

2 comments:

  1. Rick,
    great tutorials. Any recommendation on how to apply poly with brush without it drying up before the application is done and eliminating brush marks? Is there a better alternative to poly?

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    Replies
    1. This is a 2 part professional poly not the oil or water based poly you buy at the hardware store. You don't say what it is you're finishing and that does make a difference. For an oil based product for table tops I would use Behlens Rock Hard Table Top Varnish. It does have a slight amber cast so it isn't right for everything. To keep an oil based product from drying too fast use a slower solvent. I use a quality mineral spirits (you can also add a couple drops of linseed oil to slow it down a little more but be careful, the longer it takes to dry the more dust you get.) When I was using varnish I would apply with a foam roller and then tip off the finish with either a quality bristle brush or a foam brush. Try it on some samples and let me know how it works out.

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